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By: Ashby Stiff
for the Tallahassee Democrat
She moves with the erect,
liquid grace of a dancer, this Tamara-this Venezuelan telejournalist
turned world traveler, chef and Apalachicola restaurateur.
From prep table to grill to sautoir, she advances, in the visible white
kitchen of Tamara's Cafe Floridita. Her expression is as intent as a
working surgeon's, her motions steady, economical.
Here she poaches teriyaki-marinated Mahi Mahi in a bath of white wine.
There she pans a Garlic Shrimp appetizer, its eight fresh locals sizzling
in olive oil with a dash of lemon juice, a splash of white wine and a
copious mince of garlic.
In a corner, she slices wedges of her seductive Tequila Flan and gingerly
plates them on caramelized honey syrup.
Who is this intriguing, pixie haired presence? How did she come to be in
this place, at this time?
During her 10 years as producer of a national tele-magizeine in Caracas,
Tamara Suarez interviewed scores of resident and traveling celebrities.
Among her favorites were the world-famous chefs who came and went in the
country.
She collected hundreds of recipes and a storehouse of cooking wisdom in
Caracas and on her winding 20-year journey from South America to
Apalachicola.
Along the way, she borrowed from the age-old wisdom that a foreign
language is best learned from a lover, and it was thru that she furthered
her knowledge of cooking.
"Ah, he was a wonderful French chef, this man. And then there was an
Italian..."
That was in Los Angeles, where televising the news in Spanish finally lost
out to cooking as a way of life.
Years and many miles later, the vacationing, self-styled gypsy found
Apalachicola.
"It was the peace and serenity of the place and the Gulf. And the
marvelous fresh seafood. I just decided that I would stay here, live
here."
For a year she cooked at a local grill. Then, a period storefront came
available. It was her chance.
A designer friend flew in from Santa Barbara, Calif. Old white boards were
torn away to expose ancient brick walls, Grey-painted plank floors were
scraped and varnished. Sky-high ceiling became midnight green, and masked
with giant, inverted market umbrellas of the same color.
White, doweled drop-shades were fashioned by a local sailmaker. Banana
trees were installed. Hemp-seated ebony chairs went in.
Then, six months ago, Tamara's Cafe Floridita opened at 17 Avenue E,
Apalachicola.
"Fresh Florida Flavors with a South American Flair" is the slogan, and
indeed the Latin influence plays prominently in the black beans and yellow
rice that accompany mail courses; in the picante-spiked bell pepper,
tomato and olives that topped out Grouper that Caracas Way ($14); in the
corn tortillas that side spicy Franklin County Smoked Fish Dip ($6).
But the dimension is greater. Soupcons of French,
Italian, and Californian influences surface in the market freshness of
ingredients, in the foraccia and the dessert of Biscotti dipped in Port
Wine ($5). They appear in the spicy rubs, in the liberal application of
herds from a back-door patch, and in the frequent cameo appearances of
assertive Provencal flavors.
Start dinner, if you wish, wish Garlic Shrimp, a dish in which garlic
stands up and shouts. Or taste the shrimp and scallops in rich, tomato
based Seafood Bisque ($7). Try the crab meat and melted cheese of a Crab
Quesadilla ($7.50), or share salsa-and-sour-cream topped Black Bean Nachos
($5).
Curiously, salad neither appears on the menu or is not included with the
meal. Ask for it, however, and it arrives, replete with interesting greens
and veggies and a pot of dressing, for $2.50.
Besides last Friday's specials-- Pecan Crusted Grouper ($18) with jalapeno
sauce, and Wine-Poached Mahi Mahi with Shrimp ($17.50) --the menu's
half-dozen mail courses included Margarita Chicken ($11) sautéed in olive
oil with scallops in a tequila-honey glaze; Grilled Blackened Tuna ($12)
rubbed with fiery spices and topped with contrastingly cooling Fresh Mango
Salsa, and Floridita Pasta, prepared with either fresh shrimp, basil,
garlic and tomatoes from $13, or vegetarian-style, for $10.
A ventured Pork Chop with Shrimp a la Espanola ($12) rewarded us with a
center loin chop, herd marinated, grilled and topped with shrimp and
tangy, tomato-rich Caribbean Style Sauce.
At lunchtime, seven secret spices flavor a Blackened Hamburger (46),
served with grilled onions and with or without cheese. Shrimp and Grilled
Grouper sandwiches, and Grilled Tune on Focaccia, join Shrimp and Chicken
Quesadillas in completing the ($5 to $8.50) sandwich menu.
Entree Salads come in Blackened Grilled Tuna, Carnival Grilled Chicken,
Seafood and Vegetarian Carnival varieties (for $5 to $10). A glass of zin
or chardonnay adds $4.
Some of the desserts are works of a St. George Island hobbyist who prefers
anonymity. Others are made in Tamara's kitchen. Garnished with a compote
of strawberry, pineapple and mango, Tequila Flan ($6) is A-list. So is
same-priced Ricotta Cheesecake, drizzled with chocolate and fruit sauces.
Don't come to Tamara's in a rush. If service sometimes seems inordinary
slow, she explains it's because everything except soup and dessert is
freshly tailored to order, then painstakingly plated and garnished under a
watchful eye.
Too, in her Latin way, Tamara believes that to linger, sip, chat and laugh
are essentials of enjoyable dinging.
And enjoyable it is, in this engaging coastal cafe. |